We entered the walled city through the Bab el Minza into the Place Moulay Hassan. This is an open space, deeper than it is broad, the near side of which housed food vendors. It was a little early yet for lunch, but the juice vendors certainly looked tempting.

Just beyond was a little park bordered on two sides by stalls of fish vendors who in an hour or so would be competing for lunchtime customers of their fresh grilled fish.

The fish certainly looked wonderful.

“We’ll be back,” we promised.

“Remember me! I am number eleven!”

We agreed, and then headed into the town. The far end of the plaza provided a welcoming entrance, and then narrowed into a broad, pleasant street–a gentle introduction to lively Essaouira.

Later, we returned to the fish vendors’ stalls for lunch, as promised. After negotiation, we had the best, freshest grilled fish lunch anywhere ever, with chips and salad, for about $5, and it was big enough for both of us.