Oaxaca – San Martin Tilcajete

We come now to the moment of my greatest regret in all our trip to Mexico. Not that I could have done much about it, given the desires of my traveling companions. But even so.

I left San Martin Tilcajete without shopping bags full of alebrijes–the carved wooden figurines for which this town is justifiably famous. I miss every one of them that I wanted but did not buy. I miss every workshop we did not visit.

Alebrijes, you might ask, what’s the big deal? Let me show you the few alebrijes I bought for myself, and I think you will see.

Two small winged fire-breathing dragons with large ears and (!)antennae

A winged cat

These are just commercial-grade alebrijes, available inexpensively in the workshops where they are carved. We could have bought hummingbirds (every feather carved and painted separately), porcupines, robots, and a profusion of other real and imaginary creatures. Other alebrijes are of collector quality, gorgeous one-of-a-kind creations that are worth the high prices they command. Here are some good examples of both.

In one workshop we watched the artists at work, skilled carvers and imaginative painters both.

 

Even the entry to the workshop exuded the whimsical fantasy that makes the alebrijes so endearing.

 

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