The most charming island

It’s a lovely island. Enchanting, beautiful, windswept, and enduring all at once.

Its name is only three letters long, and apparently I can’t pronounce even one of them correctly. It’s spelled Ærø. To my ear, that sounds a lot like “Air-rue” [with the “r” trilled slightly]. But try as I may, I can’t seem to tell about it to anyone who actually lives in Denmark. The conversations go like this:

Me: “We visited this really great island. We liked it a lot.”

Danish person: “Oh? What island is that?”

Me: “Ærø.”

Danish person (with a squinty-eyed, puzzled look): “Uh… where?”

Me: “Maybe I’m not pronouncing it right. It’s spelled with that letter that looks like an A and an E combined, then R, then an O with a slash through it.”

Danish person (with a broad smile of recognition): “Ah… Ærø!”

They pronounce the island’s name in a way that sounds to my American ears exactly, but exactly, like the way I pronounced it.

My linguistic failures notwithstanding, I loved the name with its alluringly foreign letters. And I loved the island even more. Its soul is sailing the seas, and its heart is on the land.

Seafaring is particularly evident in Marstal, the largest town on Ærø, from the building of large wooden ships to the small details on the buildings.

The ferry from the mainland town of Svendborg arrives in Ærøskøbing, a delightful town of cobbled streets and colorful houses.

Everywhere, there are hollyhocks and roses, and many of the windows seem to be made for passers-by to look in as well as homeowners to look out.

Outside of the towns, the island has its beauty as well. Sea and sky and land come together very harmoniously on Ærø.

Morocco photographs

I have been sorting through the photographs from Dan’s and my trip to Morocco last month. There are about a thousand of them, so this is big job. Now that “film” has gotten so cheap, we take so many pictures. Since it now seems evident that it will be some time before I can publish this whole trip, I thought I’d get started with a random favorite photo here or there from out of the pile.

These goats seemed happily ensconced in this argan tree. Argan trees grow only in Morocco. They produce nuts from which people make an oil that allegedly has healthful properties and seems to work well on dry skin. It is nearly as impossible to escape Morocco without a argan-oil product as it is to escape without a rug.

After we stopped and I took this photo, the shepherd–an old man with astonishingly bad teeth–appeared seemingly from nowhere and demanded ten dirhams (about $1.20). I didn’t mind paying him. The absence of goats in other nearby argan trees strongly suggested that the shepherd had put these goats there somehow. But ten dirhams seemed excessive in a country given to exaggerated bargaining. I gave him the two dirhams that were in my pocket, and he seemed well pleased. I probably overpaid.

Views near Golden Grove

It’s finally happened–a sunset so photogenic that I can’t winnow the photos down to just two or three. Yesterday evening it pretty much didn’t matter which vaguely southwesterly direction I was looking in or how far down the sun actually was or how much zoomed in the camera was–everything was perfect!

See what I mean? But I’ve narrowed it down to only six more, and so without further ado, ladies and gentlemen, I present: December 5, 2012!

     

 

 

Views near Golden Grove

It hasn’t escaped my notice that there’s a lot of heavy road-work equipment out by the parking lot (or I guess I should say, what used to be the parking lot, for the North Light. So I walked over to take a closer look and to find out what they were up to.

Turns out that what they’re up to is completely demolishing and rebuilding the parking lot because of damage from Hurricane Sandy. You would never mistake this piece of the island for a parking lot right now.

While I was there, I took a picture of the light on Sachem Pond, which was extraordinary. And of our home on the island, which I must say is also extraordinary.

 

 

Views near Golden Grove

I went for a walk/run yesterday around sunset. I’d meant to go earlier in the afternoon, but our weather forecast of “partly cloudy” had generated some rainfall; then I had a late lunch; and before I knew it, it was 3:30 or so. Sunset time in New England! And me, not on my deck!

Never mind the deck. Me, without my camera.

Oh. Wait. The new cell phone has what’s supposed to be a pretty good camera. Why not use it?

And so… may I present… sunset over Sachem Pond!

 

Later, after the sun had disappeared, I found myself up on a hill on the south side of the pond, where I could see in the deepening dusk–my house! So here, only partially obscured by a pine tree in the bird sanctuary, is a never-before-published view of my house with Sachem Pond in the foreground and Block Island Sound beyond.

Views near Golden Grove

The astute reader may have noticed that yesterday’s post included sunsets from November 11, 12, and 14, but not November 13. While it’s not exactly accurate to say that there was no sunset on November 13, it’s entirely true that the sunset was not visible from my house here on Block Island. Instead, we had a day of glorious wind and clouds and even an occasional bit of rain as a cold front moved through. The swiftly moving and changing clouds danced with the light on ocean and lighthouse and winter landscape to create breathtaking vistas, all clouds and cold, as the day went on. And so… just to prove that I don’t post only sunsets, I present… November 13, 2012 on Block Island!

   

Views near Golden Grove

I’ve been on the island for several days now…really busy with work, writing and editing, and getting a lot accomplished, too. But I’ve begun to notice in myself–something not quite so obvious on shorter visits–that I am a real deep-in-the-gut sunset fanatic. (Well, duh! I can hear you saying. Eighty-eight posts of photographs on this thread, and you’re only just now noticing how many of them are sunsets? Photographs taken from the very same house?)

But listen, it isn’t just that I take all these photographs of sunsets, and it isn’t even that they’re all beautiful. It’s that every one of them is different. It’s the mystery of these sunsets that has me by the gut, that drives me up from my chair and makes me prowl around the house, camera in hand, heart beating rapidly, taking pictures from windows and decks and the path to the beach. I never know what each sunset is going to be like, in what way it’s going to be uniquely beautiful. I never even know from minute to minute how each one is going to change, how its beauty is going to evolve ten minutes from now, compared to now. Let me show you. Please allow me to present, in close proximity, the sunsets of November 11, November 12, and November 14, 2012.

  

And so I want to capture every minute of every sunset. I order my days around being home for this event. I have, dear readers, hundreds, maybe thousands, of sunset photographs in my archives, and every one of them is special. I am–I will confess it now–a sunset addict.