The backwaters of Kerala – at work

Still moored by the small village, we woke the next morning around dawn. The houseboat that had been moored next to us on the right was already gone, and the village was full of activity. To our left, two people prepared to go out fishing. A boy and his grandmother, I thought at the time, but it could equally well have been his mother.

sm01 DSC00355 sm02 DSC00359 sm03 DSC00360

They are late. All those dots in the lake in the background are fishing boats, already out there and fishing. The sun is barely up.

sm04 DSC00362 sm05 DSC00367

Meanwhile, the mother is taking care of the laundry, and colorful clothing blossoms on the line.

sm07 DSC00377 sm06 DSC00356

To our right, across the space where our neighbor houseboat used to be, some men have begun working, unloading a boatload of–muck from some canal or riverway they were trying to clear? fill for some swampy area they were trying to turn into a field? or both? They have exquisite balance, walking along the rail of the boat and then across narrow boards to the shore.

??????????????????????????????? sm09 DSC00385 sm10 DSC00390

I like the cooperative work of these men, and of the fishermen in Varkala, and I feel sad for the woman washing her lonely laundry.

But our crew has been hard at work too, and it’s time for us to leave. A delicious and plentiful breakfast awaits us as we head out across the lake where the fishermen are still hard at work, and back down the waterways to Alappuzha.

??????????????????????????????? ???????????????????????????????

 

The backwaters of Kerala – the people

In the stunning green world of Kerala’s backwaters, the people with their bright homes and clothing stand out like jewels–especially the women. We couldn’t make real contact, motoring by on our houseboat, but we could watch them on their way from, well, somewhere to somewhere else, threading the narrow path between canal and rice paddy.

sm DSC00298 sm DSC00299 sm DSC00303Or going by boat…

sm DSC00285 sm DSC00305 sm DSC00323 sm DSC00328…or maybe just preparing to go by boat…

sm DSC00319

…or hanging out by their houses. 

sm DSC00284 sm DSC00318

From our lazy houseboat perspective, even the buildings themselves clustered in their small villages or strung out along the canal have a certain charm.

sm DSC00290  sm DSC00286  sm DSC00311 sm DSC00312 sm DSC00313When we docked near a village for the night, Dan and I went out for a walk. On land. Something a little different. And here, as elsewhere in Kerala, I was approached by children. Elsewhere in India, they are likely to be beggars. But not in Kerala. Kerala has virtually no beggars, and certainly not the children. What these children wanted was simply to make my acquaintance, and maybe practice a little English.

“Hello,” they say.

I smile–I can’t help it!–and they smile back. “How are you?” they ask.

“I’m fine,” I reply. “How are you?”

“I am fine. What’s your name?”

So I tell them, and I learn theirs, and sometimes we get as far as, “How old are you?” (That would be me asking them, not the other way around. They probably don’t know numbers bigger than, say, ten.)

“May I take your picture?” I might ask, or they might ask it, in words or in gestures, these bright, shining children. “Please, take my picture.”

So I do.

sm DSC00342

 

The backwaters of Kerala

I don’t remember when I first heard about Kerala. It was years ago. I learned that it had the highest literacy rate of all Indian states–over 90% for both men and women–and the greatest religious diversity and tolerance, with large minority populations of Moslems and Christians. There had also been, I learned, a significant Jewish presence in Kerala from the destruction of the second temple until well into the twentieth century–and that all minorities lived in peace in Kerala. For years I wanted to visit a state in India with such impressive diversity, education, and tolerance.

Also, I knew that Kerala has been a center of the spice trade for thousands of years and is also famous for its tea. The best black peppercorns–Tellicherry peppers–come from Kerala. However, when I mention Kerala to friends and acquaintances in the USA, if they’d heard of Kerala at all, they did not mention any of these things. What they were curious about was:

Were Dan and I going to stay on a houseboat?

I’d never heard of such a thing, but research revealed that traveling the backwaters of Kerala in a houseboat was, in fact, the number one tourist attraction in Kerala. Who knew?!

sm DSC00306

You just don’t know what you’re missing until you’ve plied the miles of intertwined canals and rivers and lakes in a boat woven of wicker. And Alappuzha, the center of this remarkable tourist attraction, is filled with dozens, if not hundreds, of such houseboats, all waiting to take you on this unforgettable excursion.

houseboat in Alappuzha sm02 DSC00254 ???????????????????????????????

As for us, well, if we were going to take this trip, we wanted a certain amount of luxury. Air conditioning, the ability to close up against mosquitoes, and a private bathroom were requirements. The Pickadly Royal Suite Honeymoon Luxury Houseboat filled the bill–and more besides. Forget the mere private bathroom. We had an entire dedicated private houseboat, complete with a full-time crew of three–a captain, an engineer, and a chef. The food was some of the best we had in Kerala, where all the food was phenomenal. We departed the dock in Alappuzha promptly at noon and almost immediately entered an enchanted world.

Kerala backwater scenery

We, and several dozen other houseboats that all offered overnight trips that depart the dock promptly at noon.

sm04 DSC00281

Do not confuse these whimsical yet luxurious vessels with the houseboats that started this whole craze years ago, the ones on which some of the residents of this enchanting region actually live.

???????????????????????????????

Actually, many types of boats ply these waters.

??????????????????????????????? ??????????????????????????????? sm13 DSC00340 sm14 DSC00337

The scenery is idyllic.

sm15 DSC00295 sm16 DSC00321 sm17 DSC00330

Next post: More about the people.