Prague — the old Jewish cemetery

The cemetery in the Jewish quarter of Prague has been a burial ground for members of the Jewish community since ancient times. The oldest known grave is from 1439, but many believe that it has been a burial ground for much longer than that. Over 12,000 gravestones are visible. At least 40,000 people are buried here, and some people estimate that as many as 200,000 may be buried here in total.

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The cemetery was in use until 1890. It fell into disrepair by the middle of the twentieth century.

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Late in the century, it was placed under the auspices of the Jewish Museum of Prague, which has been restoring it.

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Many revered members of Prague’s Jewish community were buried here. Perhaps the most widely known nowadays, due to his appearance in a number of popular, even bestselling, works of fiction, is the legendary Rabbi Judah Loew (c. 1510-1609), a great mystic and scholar of the Kabbalah and also the storied creator of the Golem.

You may be wondering at how close together these headstones appear. There’s no way a body could be buried in between them–not even if they buried them upright (which they did not).

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This is not an optical trick of the camera. The headstones are incredibly close together.

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This is because the limited physical area of the cemetery was inadequate to store the bodies of the number of people who died over the centuries. And so it was necessary to bring in earth from outside and to layer the bodies with the requisite amount of soil between each one.

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As the layers grew, the older headstones were preserved and moved up alongside the newer ones. There are at least ten layers of bodies in the limited space of the cemetery–and maybe twelve or more.

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Between the intensity and ages of use, and the disrepair only now being corrected, the place has a surrealistic quality, as if Death itself rests here in the evenings, after the tourists have gone home.

 

Recoleta Cemetery

We had done no research on Recoleta Cemetery–no knowledge of what famous people might be buried there–but friends who had visited there recently said not to miss it. And we had an image of what a cemetery not to be missed would be like. After all, we have such a cemetery here in the Boston area: Mt. Auburn Cemetery in Cambridge and Watertown, MA. Beautiful Mt. Auburn Cemetery, an oasis of peace embedded within a busy urban setting, its landmark tombs scattered widely among what must be one of the most beautiful garden landscapes in America.

Yes, we were definitely looking forward to seeing Recoleta Cemetery, an oasis of tranquility (as we imagined) in the bustling urban environment.

We should have been prepared, but we weren’t. It was as if having seen, let’s say, Block Island, we next went to see Manhattan Island with the idea that it might evince similar rural beauty and tranquility.

Imagine our surprise as we entered the gate to the city of the dead in the midst of the living city, far less green than the great city around it, its maze of shrunken streets crowded with mausoleums.

Strange and wonderful features abounded. Mausoleums topped with crosses and domes, and ornamented with wrought iron fences and elaborate doors. Round mausoleums and domed. Mausoleums open to reveal stained glass and statues within.

Statues of angels and humans everywhere reflected pensively on human mortality.

After wandering dizzily in the cemetery for a while, we were as lost as Hansel and Gretel in the great forest, all our bread crumbs eaten by the birds. Even Dan, with his near-infallible sense of direction, had no idea which way was out. And this view (downloaded from the Internet) may explain how this could happen.

One last note, just in case you were wondering: We did eventually get out.  🙂