Visiting Szentendre by boat

There are four medieval towns upriver from Budapest, within range of a possible day trip. Each has its proponents. We thought it would be better to see one well rather than seeing three or four of them for just a few minutes each.

And so bright and early one morning, we took a boat to Szentendre.

A side benefit of this mini-cruise (it took maybe an hour and a quarter) is that it provides wonderful views of Buda (lit by the morning sun) and Pest (in moody shadow) as the boat goes by.

The royal compound

The royal palace

Turul (eagle) statue

Turul (eagle) statue

The Chain Bridge

Szechenyi Hid — Chain Bridge

Calvinist Church

Calvinist Church

Matthias Church

Matthias Church

Parliament Building

Parliament Building

A prosperous city -- the old and the new

A prosperous city — the old and the new

At last we left central Budapest.

Margit Hid -- Margaret Bridge

Margit Hid — Margaret Bridge

We passed an area that had been popular for summer camps early in the twentieth century and now was becoming popular again.

summer houses

summer houses on the river

The scenery became bucolic–and then Szentendre came into view!

peaceful river view

peaceful river view

First sight of Szentendre!

First sight of Szentendre!

Our pier was just north of town, so we had good views of the whole town from the river before we disembarked.

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Pretty as it is from the river, the town was even more charming from within.

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You may have noticed from these photos that even though we arrived early in the morning, there were still a lot of tourists around. Szentendre is like that. It’s clean and cute and quaint, and it’s full of art galleries and restaurants and tourists. Hard to know which came first. But look, what have we here?

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It’s a file of children with their teachers going to the park at the top of the hill! Eventually we get to the park too, though by a different route.

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It’s a lovely park with good views over the rooftops. And it’s made even lovelier by the children playing there.

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Lunchtime! We’d scouted out the whole historic town center, and we knew where we wanted to go–the Promenade Vendeglo (Tavern). With a terrace and umbrella’ed tables, and a river view–this was the place for us!

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The owner (I think he was the owner), it turned out, spoke enough English to make us feel welcome. When we went to order a glass of wine, we embarked on a whole conversation about the unique and characteristic wines of Hungary and where they’re grown. (Looked to me like they might be growing some of them right here!)

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This brings us at last to the part of this post where I can’t resist including a few details that I couldn’t quite fit in anywhere else yet didn’t want to part with.

Doorways and storefronts…

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Yeah, I know…peppers, my favorite. But Hungary is noted for paprika, and what do you think paprika is?

Finally, a stairway adorable beyond words…

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Goodbye, Budapest Marriott

It’s been nice. A comfortable stay, if not our normal style (whatever that is).

So, you are probably thinking, if this is not our normal style, then how did we end up here? And for six days, yet? It’s a very good question. The answer is complicated, involving the way Dan accumulates and uses various points in his business travel and our lack of any good clue regarding a more “local” establishment. Whatever the reason, I’m glad we stayed here.

The Budapest Marriott Hotel enjoys a central location, right on the Danube River on the Pest side, between the Elizabeth and Chain Bridges (Erzsébet híd and Széchenyi lánchíd). The room is light and airy and comfortable. And the front-desk and concierge staff absolutely couldn’t have been more friendly and helpful.

There’s only one drawback, and I’ll be right up front with it. From the outside, the Marriott’s architecture does not fit in well with its environment. As part of the riverscape, it is not in keeping with the historic city–and it’s worse on the side facing the street, which presents an unfriendly wall of concrete.

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Trust me, though, it’s not nearly as out-of-keeping with the environment as the Intercontinental, two buildings to the north–for what that’s worth.

From the inside, the Marriott is a whole different story. The corridors have windows that bring in daylight and city views, and every room has a superb river view. This is a part of the view from our room:

smIMG_1959We are looking across the Danube at the Buda side of the city, crowned with its royal palace.

What has made our stay even more enjoyable is that as a Gold frequent-stayer with Marriott, Dan is entitled to access to the Executive Club on the ninth floor, with its outdoor terrace overlooking the river. Here, we enjoyed the early morning mist and sunshine along with a full breakfast–juices, breads, croissants, cheeses and deli, scrambled eggs and breakfast potatoes, fruit, cereal, yogurt, coffee, and tea.

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smIMG_1977In the evening the Executive Club offered a substantial (if limited in choices) supper–enough so that if we ate a hot dinner at a restaurant during the day, this completely served for a satisfactory evening meal (though there were a couple of nights when the hot entree featured beef or veal, which Dan and I don’t eat). It included cocktails, wine and beer; appetizers such as marinated mushrooms, grilled zucchini and artichoke hearts, duck breast and goose liver; a variety of cheeses and breads; a hot dinner such as chicken with potatoes, vegetarian ravioli, or duck stew with noodles; and a variety of desserts. It also included stunning late afternoons and sunsets from the deck. 

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smIMG_2131crbThe evenings, too, were glorious from this vantage point.

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smIMG_1971Finally, I have to mention the staff at the Executive Club, who are charming and friendly. And the fellow guests we had a chance to meet and chat with.

The Marriott has been a pleasant place to stay, and though we’re eager to be going home, we’ll miss it.

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