St. Petersburg: The Hermitage

On June 10th, we visited the Hermitage, the world-famous art museum that was once the winter palace of the czars of Russia. We went to see the art, of course, but it was the building itself that captivated me. Nothing wrong with the art, mind you; some of it is among the most famous works of art in the world. I’m sure that books could be–and in fact have been–written about the artwork in this great collection. But in the interest of keeping up with my travels, more or less, I am limiting myself to just one blog post on the Hermitage, and for me at least, it was all about the rooms themselves. There were often crowds jostling about, but it really didn’t matter.

The Hermitage was amazing. I spent half my time happily gazing at the ceilings and walls. And now, dear Reader, you can, too. Let’s start with the staircase at the entrance (just above). Watch your step, but look around. Look up, too!

    

And this is just the beginning. Room after room, the building is as beautiful as the artwork housed within. I present below a number of rooms–walls or ceilings, together with a detail or so, because the joy of them is in both the broad view and the details.

  

The detail above is over the throne/chair.

    

Every detail is breathtaking.

  

Every room is different.

  

So . . .

  

. . . many . . .

  

. . . rooms!

  

So many more rooms to go!

  

Remember, this is a really big palace we’re talking about here!

And now back to the rooms . . .

  

Walls, ceilings, columns of precious stones; even the chandeliers are gorgeous!

    

Here’s a coffered ceiling.

  

We went through a long arcaded walkway with painted detailing . . .

        

. . . in order to get to this room . . .

. . . and then went out into a similar, but of course different, long arcaded room, this one with sculpture.

        

I leave you with one more room with a coffered ceiling, where every coffer was itself a work of art.

  

 

St. Petersburg: The city

St. Petersburg has been styled “the Venice of the north,” and it is easy to see the analogy. The city is built on a number of islands connected by riverways and canals, with bustling boat and pedestrian traffic, impressive palaces, and amazing churches. If I had to describe it in one word, I’d say, “Beautiful.” If given a second word-choice, I’d have to go with, “Crowded.”

Yes, I know it’s June. I know the soccer World Cup begins here (and in several other cities in Russia) in just two days (I wrote this on June 13th). I know it’s a necessary stop on every Baltic cruise. But, really, there are *five* cruise ships in the port today, plus a river-cruise ship in the city. And at least one of those five ships is big enough to house an entire city all by itself. And even so, this is not enough to explain how every block is too crowded to walk on; every tourist sight has its long line; the Hermitage is too full of people to see the pictures; and even first thing in the morning on a cool, cloudy day, Peterhof has crowds around every fountain.

I prefer my photographs uncluttered with strangers, but that’s just not always possible here. Please look at them with understanding, and enjoy the sights behind all the people!

Many people have posted wonderful pictures of St. Petersburg’s monuments–and the monuments are certainly amazing. But I’d like just to focus on the street scenes (some of which, of course, involve monuments), so that you can see something of the fabric of this beautiful city. And the fabric of the city is woven around its many canals and its great riverway. The views from the Neva River are expansive.

Crossing the Neva River, looking back at the Hermitage

Crossing the Neva River, looking forward to the Peter and Paul Fortress

One of many bridges, decorated for the upcoming World Cup

Views from the canals are more intimate–and lovely.

Here are a few other street scenes, including some lively markets.

Finally, no survey of the streets of St. Petersburg would be complete without some views of the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood.