We arrived in Cefalu in a rainstorm. Parking is not available in the historic center for non-residents, so we had to park at the train station (EU7 per day) and walk (10 minutes) to our rented apartment through the delightfully pedestrian historic area, the attractive stone paving slippery under the soles of my shoes worn smooth from so much walking.
There are many good reasons to visit Cefalu, a promontory on the north coast of Sicily, and our one stop on this coast as we made our way around the island. Primary among these is the astonishing rock, about nine hundred feet high, that dominates the town. (The picture below is taken from the visitsicily website, as I was unable to take a photo myself because of the rain.)
Skyline of Cefalù, touristic village in northern Sicily
And then, of course, there are the beaches, beautiful even in the rain and just after.
Even in waterfront areas where there are rocks instead of beaches, the town is impressive.
In addition, the historic district is charming; somehow there are outdoor cafes even on the narrow streets.
It might well have a nightlife, too, though not in the pouring rain. In the rain’s aftermath, however, the cafes of the piazza in front of the Duomo were open for business.
And it is of the Duomo itself that I wish to speak, seen here fronting the piazza. The cathedral was built beginning in 1131 by Roger the Norman, who was then king of Sicily. Yes, there was a Norman (as in, from Normandy) Kingdom in Sicily from the end of the eleventh and throughout much of the twelfth century. And, once the previous rulers of more than two centuries, Muslim Moors or Arabs, were defeated, they were allowed to continue living in Sicily in peace. There followed a period of what UNESCO describes as “the fruitful coexistence of people of different origins and religions (Muslim, Byzantine, Latin, Jewish, Lombard and French),” which blossomed into a unique architectural style exemplified by the cathedral in Cefalu, along with the cathedral in Monreale and several structures in Palermo. These structures, collectively, have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, and are described by UNESCO as follows: “The innovative re-elaboration of architectural forms, structures, and materials and their artistic, decorative, and iconographic treatments – most conspicuously the rich and extensive tesserae mosaics, pavements in opus sectile, marquetry, sculptural elements, paintings, and fittings – celebrate the fruitful coexistence of people of different origins.”
Outside, the cathedral is built mostly in the Romanesque style. A closer examination of a column that appears damaged revealed a rather imaginative capital.
Inside, it’s quite magnificent.
Its most wonderful feature is the mosaics that decorate the apse. Two euros turn on the lights for a brief period, so that the tourist (me) can hope to take a few photos. A small price for a moment of glittering gold and glory.
