Hard at work in Shirakawago

A person can’t visit Shirakawa-go for long without wondering what’s involved in maintaining those steep, thickly thatched roofs. The answer is: teamwork! Many hands make light work; the job takes only a few days when everyone pitches in. Here are two photographs, one much older than the other, of roof replacement on two of the largest houses.

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We were fortunate to see work being done on another roof, on a much smaller scale, while we were there.

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One man is gathering the straw into bundles; a second is raking the loose straw together and also handing the bundles up to the men working on the roof. The men on the roof are alternately feeling the roof thatch to make sure it is tight and solid, stuffing straw into the roof wherever they can to make it tighter, and shaving the edges of the newly stuffed straw into a neat line.

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The other work in progress, it being mid-September, was the rice harvest. Rice, it turns out, is growing in many fields, large and small, throughout the village. It is surprisingly beautiful.

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Scarecrows!

In a larger field, we saw one farmer using a hand-operated harvesting machine. In others, people harvested entirely by hand.

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The sheaves are protected from the rain in their beautiful rows.

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Bagan – the traditional way of life

Along the road from Shwezigon Pagoda to the soya bean paste factory (to be posted tomorrow), we passed through a small village. Some of the roofs may be better constructed than centuries ago, and there’s the occasional satellite dish. A well-constructed little dry-goods store has proprietor’s quarters above. But really, little has changed here in all this time. The houses and many fences are still made of woven bamboo, and many of the roofs are thatch. The road is still dirt. Vehicles–what few there are–share the road with children and animals.

It’s not so different here from one generation to the next.

      

Many of the homes and stores in southeast Asia have little “spirit houses” in which the spirit of the place may dwell without invading the human habitation. In the cities, these are often made of concrete. Here in the village, though, the spirits live much like the humans do.

Now here’s that lovely dry-goods store, built (it proclaims in both Burmese and Anglo numerals) in 1983. These people are doing relatively very well indeed.

Here are some people who are, perhaps, not doing so well, but still, they have a boat. And waste not, want not. Empty provision sacks, sewn together, make fine sails for traveling along the wide Irrawady River.