mmm — Milliways

It doesn’t happen very often that Dan and I dine in a restaurant so extraordinary that we are put in mind of Milliways, the Restaurant at the End of the Universe. (For those of you who don’t already know about Milliways, the best short description of it can probably be found here; scroll down to ‘M’.)

But tonight, we were very, very close.

The name of the restaurant is Tidal Raves, in Depoe Bay, Oregon. Okay, so we didn’t deposit a penny a million billion years ago to pay for the meal, but even with wine and a martini, dinner for two came to less than a hundred dollars. The service was outstanding. The food (fresh wild coho salmon with dungeoness crab risotto; wild Pacific snapper with smoked salmon potato cake; summer vegetables; salad with berries and shrimp) was superb. And the view…

Well, that’s what makes Milliways Milliways, isn’t it?

We sat at a corner table by the windows and looked out over the Pacific ocean as the evening descended.

depoe-bay-tidal-raves-view-from-window

And there were grey whales breaching in the waters just outside. It just doesn’t get any better than this.

Ladd’s Addition – Portland, Oregon

Today I walked (click here to see the map).

I walked from my hotel downtown (at SW 6th Ave. and SW Taylor St.) up to Stumptown Coffee (at SW 3rd Ave. and SW Pine St., almost in Chinatown) for breakfast-on-the-go. Great coffee and a blueberry-raspberry scone.

Then I walked across the Morrison Bridge. This in itself was a major accomplishment. Despite Portland’s aggressive and successful campaign to become carbon neutral, the Morrison Bridge is hostile to pedestrians. We will not discuss here how difficult it is for a pedestrian to find any pedestrian access to the bridge. Instead, I include here an actual unretouched photo of the attractive pedestrian environment on the bridge. This is how the engineers think the pedestrians will safely pass by the entry ramp. No one does this. We’d rather be killed in the traffic.

pedestrian ramp crossing on the Morrison Bridge in Portland, OR

pedestrian ramp crossing on the Morrison Bridge in Portland, OR

I crossed the manufacturing/ industrial area on the east side of the bridge and reached the northwest corner of Ladd’s Addition at SE Hawthorne Blvd.. and SE 12th Ave. And entered an enchanted world. Why don’t more people know about this? The entire area is an historic district, and many of the houses in it also have historic markers. Most of the houses are of the Arts-and-Crafts style.

house-in-ladds-addition-1 house-in-ladds-addition-2 house-in-ladds-addition-3 house-in-ladds-addition-4

Streets are lined with trees, often elms. Except for the major diagonals, they are quite narrow.

street-in-ladds-addition

Sidewalks, on the other hand, are generously wide, as is the green space between the sidewalk and the street. This green space is often used for gardening. Sometimes even vegetable gardening. The raised-bed vegetable gardens look surprisingly good. I want to do this at home.

sidewalk-in-ladds-addition sidewalk-in-ladds-addition-2 vegetable-gardening-in-the-grass-strip-in-ladds-addition

At the center of the Addition is a park, confusingly entitled in google maps “Ladd’s Circle Square Park”. In each of the cardinal directions, midway between the park and the edge of the Addition is a diamond-shaped rose garden.

rose-garden-in-ladds-addition

Moving on to Hawthorne Boulevard, I found a delightful cafe just on the far (east) corner of Ladd’s Addition. In their flower-filled garden patio, I ate roasted-beet-arugula salad and chilled cucumber soup.

garden-at-the-cafe-castagna-on-hawthorne

Other interesting sights on Hawthorne included a hardware store surrounded by gardens, a tempting bakery, a blade store full of samurai swords (sorry, no picture), and–yes!–a grass roof!

hardware-store-surrounded-by-gardens-on-hawthorne-blvd bakery-on-hawthorne grass-roof-on-hawthorne

Usenix 1985

I didn’t get it right when I told this tale the other day, but it’s all coming back to me now.

The events in this story occurred in the winter of 1985 at the Usenix Conference in Dallas, Texas. I was working for a company in Cambridge, MA called Mirror Systems (a wholly owned subsidiary of the Times Mirror Corporation, a major publishing conglomerate). I was the Vice President of Technical Development. Our IS group, under my management, comprised two people: our operations manager and our systems programmer. We used the UNIX operating system, and so the Usenix conference was an important event to these people and to some of the developers as well. The company sent perhaps eight people to the conference. I went too. I went because as manager of a UNIX shop, I felt the need to know as much as I could about the technical environment.

Now, like many subsidiaries of major corporations, Mirror Systems, despite its small size, was subject to intense financial controls by the parent company. And like many technically oriented companies, especially in Cambridge, its internal culture resisted such control. The people who attended the Usenix conference were among the most technical of our staff and therefore in general were among the most resistant to the financial bureaucracy our parent company imposed. And among the technical staff, none was more resistant than our systems programmer Franklin, Unix wizard extraordinaire.

Mirror Systems employees were subject to limits imposed by the parent corporation on how much we could expense for a breakfast, lunch, or dinner. And expenses over a certain amount (perhaps $25) had to be accompanied by a receipt. Wanting to have one dinner at a particularly good (and expensive) restaurant in Dallas, those of us traveling to the conference agreed that we’d skimp on dinner expenses for the rest of the conference in order to afford this one splurge of a meal.

Eight of us were present for dinner. The meal was great. The wine was excellent. When the bill came, Franklin picked up the tab and put it on his credit card. This surprised me—he wasn’t much of one for dealing with finances—but he assured me he wanted to do it.

When Franklin’s expense report crossed my desk the following week, I saw at once the amusing pattern that had prompted his eagerness to pick up the check. For the entire duration of the conference, he had expensed only $5 for each meal—probably less than he had actually spent. There were no accompanying receipts for these expenses, none being required. And for the one dinner, he had expensed the entire tab for a meal for eight at a pricy restaurant—perhaps $600. It made me laugh. I approved the expense report and submitted it to our comptroller for processing.

The next day, the president of the company called me into his office. The comptroller was there. He looked very upset, and the president no less so. “What is the meaning of this expense report?” asked the president.

“I know it’s a lot for one dinner,” I explained, “but there were eight of us there. See, Franklin has listed the attendees. We all ate very inexpensively all week long so that we could have this one meal. Look at all the expense reports, and you’ll see.”

“That’s not the problem,” said the comptroller. “I can’t submit this to corporate.”

“But why not?”

“This will stand out like a police car with its lights on. If we submit something like this, we’ll get audited for sure. And that will be more work for me than you can imagine.”

“Why would they audit us? The expense report is legitimate. If anything, Franklin has cheated only himself by understating the amounts he actually spent on meals.”

“That’s exactly the problem! Who spends exactly $5.00 on every meal, all week long? It looks too suspicious. You have to tell him to vary the amounts.”

“You mean, submitting $600.00 for one meal is okay; it’s the $5.00 meals that are the problem? And if he submits some meals for $5.00, some for $6.50, some for $8.95, that would be okay, even though it would cost the company more?”

 “Yes!” Relief shone on the comptroller’s face.

And so I had to tell Franklin that the pattern was really beautiful, but that we needed random numbers here. And so it was done.

And no, we didn’t get audited.

Riviera Shores, Florida

You will not find Riviera Shores, Florida on any map. I know. I looked. But the place is there all the same. It must be real; there’s even a sign.

One has to wonder about this sign. Did the neighbors agree to it collectively, or is it the gift of one household to its community? Was it created in a spirit of neighborly love? Or resentment against the allegedly corrupt government of the City of Riviera Beach from which it cannot escape? Or in sheer whimsy?

There are other peculiar things about the community of Riviera Shores:

Directional signs are confusing. 

And residents have a noticeable proclivity toward imaginative mailboxes.

All images from Riviera Beach & Lake Park, Florida

Airport Security

This is what happened to me on the way home from Florida Monday:

 
I put my suitcase, my backpack, a tray containing my computer and the liquids baggy, and a tray containing my shoes and my dinner onto the belt and stepped through the personal scanning device, which I passed with no problem. As I went to wait for my stuff, the security guy asked me the dreaded question: “Is this your bag?” It was indeed my suitcase. My suitcase crammed full to bursting not only with everything I wanted to take for a week and a half in Florida but also several layers of sweaters, vests, and a jacket for arrival in chilly Massachusetts. “We’d like to just take a look inside,” he said. 
 
I got my shoes on and my backpack repacked with all the other stuff, and watched as the security guy undid the zipper of my suitcase. He undid the bands that keep my clothes folded neatly and began folding them all back to one side as he dug down toward the bottom.
 
I absolutely could not imagine what he might have seen in there, so I asked, “What are you looking for?”
 
He was vague, but asked if maybe I had a pack of spare batteries. Okay, batteries. “I have an iPod and a couple of spare batteries for it.” He dug that out and put it aside. 
 
“I also have a tape player, and there’s a couple of spare batteries for that, too.” That was in the other side of the suitcase, so after more rummaging around through all the clothes piled on top (further unfolding things, though he was very polite and did try hard not to) he pulled out the running belt with the tape player and spare batteries and put that aside. 
 
Then he found my night table kit, which, it turns out has in it a flashlight, along with (you guessed it) a couple of spare batteries. More rummaging, and he brought out my medicine/toiletries kit. Nope, no batteries there, but he added it to the growing pile beside the suitcase. Then he found the little box that had a little folding booklight in it. I’d forgotten about that, and it has, in fact, a very weird little battery. He added it to the pile. 
 
“We’re just going to run this through again,” said the security man, taking my suitcase minus the pile of suspicious objects and minus also a couple of books that had fallen out. 
 
And I’m thinking, thank heavens I allowed some extra time at the airport! (Yes, thanks, Mom; that came in handy!)
 
The security man returned shortly with my suitcase and announced, “Those weren’t it.” He began digging all the way to the bottom, and now I knew I was never going to get it all back together again. 
 
In a few moments, he pulled out a flat cardboard box (maybe only 3/4″ high by 4″ wide by 10″ long). “What’s this?” he asked.
 
What that was, was a set of twelve lovely antique crystal knife rests from Austria, a part of a place setting for a formal dinner in a bygone elegant era. They were a gift from a friend of my mother’s. “They’re crystal,” I told the security guy as he cautiously opened the box. 
 
He laughed, his relief evident. “Oh, crystal!” he said. “You know, that scans black.” And I thought, Like metal. Like batteries. Like explosives.
 
I guess it really *is* LEAD crystal!
 
So be warned, if you ever happened to be carrying any crystal through the airport, take it out of your bag in advance. I never did get all that stuff back into the suitcase right. 
 

No Parking

 Two signs in Lake Park, Florida, one above the other, are fastened to a signpost in the middle of a swale between the street and the sidewaik. “NO PARKING ANY TIME” declares the top sign. Below it, the second sign adds, “NO PARKING IN SWALE”.

From Riviera Beach & Lake Park, Florida

Were these signs posted by the town’s Department of Redundancy Department?

Given the opportunity, the clever (or perverse) reader could interpret these signs any of three ways:

  1. NO PARKING IN SWALE AT ANY TIME. WE JUST COULDN’T FIT THIS ALL IN ONE SIGN.
  2. IN GENERAL, NO PARKING AT ANY TIME ANYWHERE IN LAKE PARK. ESPECIALLY NOT HERE IN THE SWALE.
  3. NO PARKING AT ANY TIME. NOT EVEN IN THE SWALE, RIGHT HERE, WHERE THE SIGN IS POSTED! YOU BLOCKHEAD!

Personally, I’d bet on number 3. But it won’t help. Right in front of the sign, a truck is parked. In the swale.

From Riviera Beach & Lake Park, Florida

So who owns this truck, anyway? Yes, that’s right: the Town of Lake Park!

Neighboring Riviera Beach has a kinder, gentler approach to the problem of parking in swales. “Please,” they ask politely, “do not park on swales.”

From Riviera Beach & Lake Park, Florida

I wonder which is more effective.

One step leads to another (in Washington Park, Portland)

 

I had to go to the Japanese Gardens in Portland, Oregon. This little bit of unfinished business from my last trip here thirty years ago was the one item firmly established on my agenda for this trip. But there is no easy way to get there; this is probably why I never made it on the last trip.

Given my planned departure time, the Portland public transit Web site recommends that I take the light rail and then walk somewhere to connect to a bus that runs only once an hour. A bit more research on this Web site reveals that I could leave later, walk a little farther south downtown, and with careful time coordination hop the bus to begin with, thereby avoiding the transfer.

The return is a bit trickier because the bus will wind all through the very large Washington Park and take half an hour longer to get back downtown than it took coming out. Also, I again have to worry about the timing. Or perhaps I could walk from the Japanese Gardens to the light rail station on the other side of the park. This doesn’t look close, but it’s hard to tell from the map on the transit Web site just how far it is and what would be involved. I decide to deal with the return trip later. I time my departure so that after only a short wait I board the bus for Washington Park.

The Japanese Gardens are truly wonderful (see my previous blog post). As I leave, I ask the admissions attendant whether it’s possible to walk from there to the light rail station. Yes, she answers, sounding a bit surprised. This is apparently not a common question. There’s a dirt hiking trail, she tells me. It starts right by their driveway and winds for two miles through the woods, ending near the station. She offers me a trail map.

Two miles! Alone in the woods! And clearly these are very rough and hilly woods at that. I’m not sure about this, but I thank her and take the map. While visiting the Rose Gardens down the hill, I mull over my options. Even at this time of year, many of the roses are in bloom. They are very pretty, but visiting this garden doesn’t take much time.

Return trip decision time is now at hand. I climb up as far as the bus stop. The next bus should come by in just ten or twelve minutes. But, having gone to all the trouble to get here, it seems a shame to leave so quickly, so… definitively.

I opt for the two-mile hike.

I climb back up to the Japanese garden and find the start of the trail. Five minutes into the walk I begin to worry. Should I be afraid of encountering strangers along the way? I have no idea whether this park is infamous for muggings and worse, or not. Or should I be afraid of *not* encountering anyone? What if I slip and fall, all alone? What if I get lost?

It takes another five minutes to dismiss these considerations. The woods are beautiful. I am competent. A few people do come by, just a few, and they are as friendly as other Oregonians have been. I relax into the rhythm of walking. The trail is well marked. Not only am I not lost but I can actually follow my progress on the trail map.

Forty minutes into my hike the territory that has come to feel familiar to me explodes into surprise: Here is a trail branching off that is not on the map! And just down the trail, a sign: I have entered an arboretum! The sign recommends visiting the “Maple Grove” in autumn, and so I do.

I sketch the maple grove onto its blank area on my trail map, and I draw in the trails through the arboretum as well.

In the maple grove, two women are coming up the trail toward me. “Excuse me,” one of them asks, “is this the way toward the Japanese Gardens?”

I am pleased to be able to tell them that it is, and exactly which trails and turns they should follow, and how long it will take. I have been transformed into an expert.

In less than ten minutes, I reach the light rail station. I am a different person than the one who set out this morning. I have become a competent old-hand solo Washington-Park hiker.

The Portland Japanese Gardens

The Japanese gardens in Portland, Oregon are strikingly beautiful, even off-season in mid-November.

The size, texture, color, and location of every plant, stone, timber, waterway, bench, building, and lantern have been selected to give the visitor pleasure. Each angle of each pathway is arranged for the best view of the garden or the most harmonious sound of a quiet waterfall. Each bench is in the most restful location. Every bush has been pruned to its best shape, one that will most complement the surrounding plants and structures. Tree limbs are carefully trained to follow the most desirable lines.

Even in the so-called Natural Garden nothing, but nothing, has been left to chance.

In the autumn garden, I have begun to suspect that every morning the staff arranges even the fallen leaves on the pathways in patterns of perfect and only-apparently-random beauty.

Blown Glass

I have always had a weakness for the beauty of blown glass, but never, until this weekend, have I seen it actually being blown. So everything going on at the Icefire Glassworks in Cannon Beach, Oregon was new to me: how many layers of glass and color; how many times the work in process goes in and out of the fire; how many different fires are used; how many different ways the color can be applied; how many times the glass is blown and blown again before it is finished.

How like a dance the process is! The molten glass is always in motion, and the creators work together in choreographed teamwork.

The process is elemental; in days of fantasy and yore, glassblowers would have been mages and sorcerers, combining in their secret rhythms the glass and powders and grains of the earth, the air of their breath, the fire of three forges. And—yes—water, essential for shaping the glass and insulating the tools. Steam so hot that it is invisible and does not burn.


Experiencing a place

Recently, I put up a Web site about Dan’s and my trip to Turkey and Greece (http://www.songless.com/greece/). That site contains a (large) number of photographs, perhaps 150 of them, distilled down from the 650 or so that we took on the trip. By “we” in the previous sentence, what I mean is almost entirely “I”.

“There aren’t any photographs of you,” noted my friend Karen.

I too noticed the lack of pictures of me when I was editing the pictures, and believe me, I went through all 650 of them. What there was, was a lot of pictures showing the back of Dan in the forward distance just as he was about to vanish around some corner. There were also a lot of pictures showing streets and places empty of people where Dan had vanished around that corner just a moment or two before.

I spent many a happy hour in Turkey and Greece trailing behind Dan. We like the same kind of places and enjoy exploring them together (well, almost together) for hours on end. I explore with camera in hand, stopping to see if there is a picture in this place and if so to frame it and take it. I view places in two dimensions delineated by a frame. I have to stop and look. I have to stop and digest what I’m seeing and compose the shot to capture the essence of the place. I have to stand still to experience a place.

And Dan has to come back and get me when he’s gotten too far ahead of me and I get lost and don’t know where he went. Because Dan doesn’t experience places the way I do. He experiences places in glorious three dimensions by moving through them. He is restless. He wants to explore everything, map in hand, never pausing. Because for him, that’s the essence of the experience.

And here I thought we had both gone on the same vacation.