Visiting Szentendre by boat

There are four medieval towns upriver from Budapest, within range of a possible day trip. Each has its proponents. We thought it would be better to see one well rather than seeing three or four of them for just a few minutes each.

And so bright and early one morning, we took a boat to Szentendre.

A side benefit of this mini-cruise (it took maybe an hour and a quarter) is that it provides wonderful views of Buda (lit by the morning sun) and Pest (in moody shadow) as the boat goes by.

The royal compound

The royal palace

Turul (eagle) statue

Turul (eagle) statue

The Chain Bridge

Szechenyi Hid — Chain Bridge

Calvinist Church

Calvinist Church

Matthias Church

Matthias Church

Parliament Building

Parliament Building

A prosperous city -- the old and the new

A prosperous city — the old and the new

At last we left central Budapest.

Margit Hid -- Margaret Bridge

Margit Hid — Margaret Bridge

We passed an area that had been popular for summer camps early in the twentieth century and now was becoming popular again.

summer houses

summer houses on the river

The scenery became bucolic–and then Szentendre came into view!

peaceful river view

peaceful river view

First sight of Szentendre!

First sight of Szentendre!

Our pier was just north of town, so we had good views of the whole town from the river before we disembarked.

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Pretty as it is from the river, the town was even more charming from within.

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You may have noticed from these photos that even though we arrived early in the morning, there were still a lot of tourists around. Szentendre is like that. It’s clean and cute and quaint, and it’s full of art galleries and restaurants and tourists. Hard to know which came first. But look, what have we here?

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It’s a file of children with their teachers going to the park at the top of the hill! Eventually we get to the park too, though by a different route.

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It’s a lovely park with good views over the rooftops. And it’s made even lovelier by the children playing there.

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Lunchtime! We’d scouted out the whole historic town center, and we knew where we wanted to go–the Promenade Vendeglo (Tavern). With a terrace and umbrella’ed tables, and a river view–this was the place for us!

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The owner (I think he was the owner), it turned out, spoke enough English to make us feel welcome. When we went to order a glass of wine, we embarked on a whole conversation about the unique and characteristic wines of Hungary and where they’re grown. (Looked to me like they might be growing some of them right here!)

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This brings us at last to the part of this post where I can’t resist including a few details that I couldn’t quite fit in anywhere else yet didn’t want to part with.

Doorways and storefronts…

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Yeah, I know…peppers, my favorite. But Hungary is noted for paprika, and what do you think paprika is?

Finally, a stairway adorable beyond words…

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Budapest – Basilica to Opera

Equipped with a map of the city and a sunny day, Dan and I decided that we would do what we most love to do in a beautiful foreign city–walk! We decided to walk over to the Hungarian State Opera House (Magyar Allami Operahaz) to see about getting a tour of the building, and thence to the Jewish quarter.

On the way, we chanced to come upon the dazzling St. Stephen’s Basilica (Szent Istvan Bazilika). This basilica, completed in 1905, is dedicated to the first king of Hungary, who died in 1038, and whose right hand is still preserved in the church’s reliquary.

The architect was a well-known Hungarian architect of the time, Miklos Ybl, whose last name appears to need a vowel. This is one of his most famous buildings. One reason the basilica took so long to construct (54 years) is that the dome, which was under construction, collapsed in 1868. The entire church had to be demolished and rebuilt from the ground up. I cannot imagine how tragic this must have felt to the architect! He did live to see it begun again, but died before its completion.

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Had we actually read our guide book, we probably would have known about basilica in advance, but not being much for touring churches we might have decided in advance not to go in. As it was, we had no preconceptions. The basilica was magnificent; people were going in. So we did too.

And I’m glad we did. Everything about the interior was glorious.

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After visiting the basilica, we walked along the wide and gracious Andrassy Ut to the opera house.

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Begun in 1875 and completed in 1884, this building too is the work of architect Miklos Ybl. Those among you interested in architectural drawings can find plans and a beautiful section of the building by following this link.

The entry loggia has beautiful ceilings, and I began to get the idea that I would spend a lot of my time in Hungary looking up.

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When we did tour the opera house a day or two later, we learned that as part of the short-lived Austro-Hungarian Empire, Budapest had to seek the permission of Emperor Franz Joseph in order to build an opera house. The emperor, being Austrian and justifiably proud of the newly completed State Opera House in Vienna, wanted no competition from upstart Hungary. (It’s worth noting here that the Austro-Hungarian Empire had been formed less than a decade before, in 1867, as a result of a war between Austria and Hungary; and the two nations, though united, were not on comfortable terms.) He granted permission and established a budget sufficient to building an opera house, but not a magnificent one, nothing that would outshine his new opera house in Vienna.

The Hungarians, delighting in their cleverness even to this day, responded by building an opera house that was smaller and relied where possible on local materials, but was in every notable way as grand as any opera house anywhere.

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Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife attended only one opera there, on opening night, and were (according to our guide) so miffed at the magnificence of the place that they never came back.

Well, they did also have a first-rate opera house right there in Vienna. Maybe they just didn’t like to travel.

Whether this story is true or not–the Budapest Opera House does have a reputation as one of the top three opera houses in Europe for acoustics.

 

Budapest – Statuary and building details

Since I started this section on Hungary with tiny details, it seems to make sense to work from the small to the large. Especially since there are some fine large buildings coming. So herewith some fine statues and interesting building details.

Especially up in the palace area of the western part of the city that used to be Buda, many of the statues seem to be heroic.

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Even some of the religious statues are heroic. Here, for example, is St. George, looking entirely in control of the situation.

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Even the building statues are trying to assert their heroism.

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Later, we found a statue with a more human aspect.

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These caryatids are not having any trouble carrying their burden.

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And what’s that over the doorway of that building? Surely not… the prow… of a ship? Flanked by naked people?

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All the glass led me to think that the building below might be art deco–but not with a crowning mural like that. I don’t know what style to call it.

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This building is more purely Art Nouveau (or Deco) and it has a lovely entryway.

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And finally, here is an unabashedly modern upper-level walkway set into a fine old inner gallery. And the combination works so very well!

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Smile! We’re in Budapest!

Moving on–at last!–from Austria to Hungary, we arrive at the part of the trip where my photographic zeal was so great I hardly know how to deal with the resulting volume of pictures.

The best thing, I suppose, is to pick up where I left off in Vienna, with a more or less random assortment of things that made me smile.

Budapest is a lovely city full of friendly people. There’s a lot to smile about here. And so it’s not a surprise that some of it has gotten, well, built in. For example, this set of urchins.

Too loud!

Too loud!

Too wet!

Too wet!

And here are some building entrance lights:

Children welcome inside

Children welcome!

Um... satyrs welcome?

Um… satyrs welcome?

Identification emblems:

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Needs no translation:

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Couldn’t agree on the color:

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Buddha has his back to the window because…

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…enlightenment must come from within!

And finally, just because dancing water is always joyous:

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Welcome to Budapest!

 

Vienna – A miscellany of details I like

How I hate the category “Miscellaneous”! It’s that dark space under the rug of the disorganized mind where unruly items can be swept, made invisible, and thenceforth ignored.

But here I am, stuck with a miscellany of pictures that have nothing in common (besides for being in Vienna) and that I like too well to discard.

So please. Bear with me.

The angel in the woods

The angel in the woods

This golden angel seems a good place to start. She is not actually *in* the woods. But she certainly appears to be from this viewpoint. The sight struck me with a particular poignancy thanks to my friend L. Jagi Lamplighter Wright, whose latest book features a statue of an angel in the woods.

And while we’re on the subject of statues…

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All day long they’re singing, mmm, my work is so hard

Give me water, I'm thirsty... My work is so hard

Give me water, I’m thirsty… My work is so hard

Watching from the top of the dome

Watching from the top of the dome

We came upon what seemed like an unusually dreary neighborhood (well, maybe the dreary part was due to the weather) without much architectural interest. And yet, and yet…

An elegant overpass with its light pole

An elegant overpass with its light pole

Watch your step!

Watch your step!

This rapidly became our favorite bakery.

We walked blocks out of our way to visit this bakery a second time...

We walked blocks out of our way to visit this bakery a second time…

...and a third.

…and a third.

This looks like a good place to shop!

This looks like a good place to shop!

It doesn't look like anything ought to be able to grow in a corner this dark, but...

It doesn’t look like anything ought to be able to grow in a corner this dark, but…

Vienna is full of interesting upper-story pedestrian overpasses.

This one's on the third floor (second floor above the ground floor0

This one’s on the third floor (second floor above the ground floor)

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It has a wonderful Art Nouveau astrological…er, clock?

Finally, I really don’t know what to make of this, except that as a reader and writer of fantasy I like it a great deal!

The corner looks unfinished, except that it's much too deliberate.

The corner looks unfinished, except that it’s much too deliberate.

Let's see... a farsighted red cow reading strange runes while being shooed by a magical broom? Did I get that right?

Let’s see… a farsighted red cow reading strange runes while being shooed by a magical broom? Did I get that right?

Vienna – Austrian National Library

Why did I ever think there was just one list of “The World’s Most Beautiful Libraries”? I suppose any magazine, newspaper, or blogger might make one. There are the “most beautiful public libraries,” “the most exquisite libraries,” “the most spectacular libraries,” and many more. And are these lists all the same? Of course not!

So all I can say about the State Hall of the Austrian National Library is that whether or not it’s on any or all of those lists, it’s certainly on mine. (In this it joins the library at the Strahov Monastery in Prague, which I have described previously.) And I hope that in this post I can show you why.

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Two whole stories of antique books, marble columns, gorgeously painted high ceilings, plenty of natural light, and a nifty statue in the middle…What’s not to like?

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Vienna – Art Nouveau houses

As I mentioned in the previous post, Dan and I had come to Wienzeile in order to see a couple of noteworthy Art Nouveau style houses on Linke Wienzeile. And they were lovely–if a bit difficult to photograph in their entirety due to the pesky market buildings at our back.  😉 (Anyone who read the previous post will know at once that we loved the market on Wienzeile.)

The two Art Nouveau houses by architect Otto Wagner at numbers 38 and 40 Linke Wienzeile are indeed beautiful. And just as lovely is the way they meet each other as well as the next building–with a great deal of mutual respect, a value in architecture that has been much neglected by many buildings in modern times.

Starting at number 38, we see…

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From the corner, it’s almost “just another gilded building.” You’d hardly notice the Art Nouveau elements. But moving along, the style becomes more evident.

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This building is joined to the one at number 40 by balconies and by a nearly continuous wrought-iron railing.

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I love the pattern of tiles on the facade of the building at number 38! And just look at the railings and the decorations on the insides of the balconies!

Now, you might be thinking that it’s no great wonder that these two buildings, different as they are in many obvious particulars, are joined together so harmoniously. They are, after all, by the same architect.

But look at how respectfully the house at number 38 uses its ornamented balconies ans wrought-iron railings to join with the Baroque building next door.

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Vienna – The Belvedere

We visited Vienna’s Belvedere palace complex because we were on a mission–we’d promised my mother we’d go see Gustav Klimt‘s famous painting “The Kiss” while we were in Vienna.

And so we did.

Despite the threats posed by a day of dramatically changeable weather, we decided to walk from our hotel (the elegant Hotel Bristol, where we had a great view of the Opera Place from our room), a distance of over a mile. One the way we passed the photogenic St. Charles Church with its minarets reminiscent of Austria’s former enemy, the Turks.

St. Charles Church

We also passed the Russian war memorial, which expresses gratitude to the Russian army for liberating Austria from the Nazis. I found its large scale, grandiose, symmetrical formality so typical of totalitarian state design practices at odds with its poignancy, making the whole monument strangely moving. Perhaps the weather enhanced this effect.

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The Belvedere is a beautiful arrangement of two buildings and their gardens, sloping down a gentle hill facing north. The Upper Belvedere is the grander of the two buildings.

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Inside is a museum that contains a wonderful collection of Klimt paintings as well as works by many other artists. It was quite interesting seeing “The Kiss” in the context of Klimt’s historical progression as an artist–poised in a small number of years between his realism and his impressionism. I must add here that despite having seen (probably) hundreds of reproductions of “The Kiss” over the years, the original quite took my breath away. I always imagined “The Kiss” as a vertical work and not very large. In fact, it is a square painting almost six feet on a side. In other words, the figures in “The Kiss” are almost life size.

Beyond are the utterly gorgeous formal gardens sloping down toward the Lower Belvedere.

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There are enticing views of the side gardens from within the Lower Belvedere.

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Vienna – the arcade

I wanted to title this post by the name that appears over the doorway of the arcade, a narrow and delightful shopping passageway right through one of Vienna’s old-city buildings.

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That would be the “Something-Complicated-in-German Passage.” I’m not very good at German, so I looked it up on Google Translate and discovered that this is the “Until Revoked Permitted Passage.”

Lovely! It’s a private way, and their lawyers don’t want to take the chance that through accepted use it might become a public passage. I need a sign like this for the private right-of-way across our property on Block Island! Except, of course, in English.

Thankfully, passage was not revoked on the day we were there, and so we were able to admire the elegant space and its wonderful detailing.

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We stopped inside one of the shops (Xocolat, a chocolate store) and it was pretty nice too…

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…and passed by a charming indoor-outdoor cafe.

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Finally, we arrived at the courtyard where we would laterr learn that Cafe Central also sometimes set up tables.

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Vienna – Cafe Central

Having ended the section on Prague with a lovely, historic cafe, I think it’s only appropriate to begin the section on Vienna with one. Continuity, and all that. So…

Welcome to the Cafe Central!

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This appears to be a place favored by its regular habitues. This gentleman, for example, probably hasn’t left his seat for months.

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In fact, Dan and I were seated at a table normally occupied by a regular. We had to assure the maitre d’ that we would be leaving well before 1pm (easy, since it was only 10am at the time).

The coffee was excellent–a quality we’d come to expect in this region–and the pastries were exquisite.

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And–what we loved as much as anything–the physical space was magnificent.

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It turned out that they also serve lunch in an intimate and charming courtyard that was part of the same building–at the very end of an arcade we’d walked the day before.

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More about this arcade in the next post…