Goodbye, Budapest Marriott

It’s been nice. A comfortable stay, if not our normal style (whatever that is).

So, you are probably thinking, if this is not our normal style, then how did we end up here? And for six days, yet? It’s a very good question. The answer is complicated, involving the way Dan accumulates and uses various points in his business travel and our lack of any good clue regarding a more “local” establishment. Whatever the reason, I’m glad we stayed here.

The Budapest Marriott Hotel enjoys a central location, right on the Danube River on the Pest side, between the Elizabeth and Chain Bridges (Erzsébet híd and Széchenyi lánchíd). The room is light and airy and comfortable. And the front-desk and concierge staff absolutely couldn’t have been more friendly and helpful.

There’s only one drawback, and I’ll be right up front with it. From the outside, the Marriott’s architecture does not fit in well with its environment. As part of the riverscape, it is not in keeping with the historic city–and it’s worse on the side facing the street, which presents an unfriendly wall of concrete.

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Trust me, though, it’s not nearly as out-of-keeping with the environment as the Intercontinental, two buildings to the north–for what that’s worth.

From the inside, the Marriott is a whole different story. The corridors have windows that bring in daylight and city views, and every room has a superb river view. This is a part of the view from our room:

smIMG_1959We are looking across the Danube at the Buda side of the city, crowned with its royal palace.

What has made our stay even more enjoyable is that as a Gold frequent-stayer with Marriott, Dan is entitled to access to the Executive Club on the ninth floor, with its outdoor terrace overlooking the river. Here, we enjoyed the early morning mist and sunshine along with a full breakfast–juices, breads, croissants, cheeses and deli, scrambled eggs and breakfast potatoes, fruit, cereal, yogurt, coffee, and tea.

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smIMG_1977In the evening the Executive Club offered a substantial (if limited in choices) supper–enough so that if we ate a hot dinner at a restaurant during the day, this completely served for a satisfactory evening meal (though there were a couple of nights when the hot entree featured beef or veal, which Dan and I don’t eat). It included cocktails, wine and beer; appetizers such as marinated mushrooms, grilled zucchini and artichoke hearts, duck breast and goose liver; a variety of cheeses and breads; a hot dinner such as chicken with potatoes, vegetarian ravioli, or duck stew with noodles; and a variety of desserts. It also included stunning late afternoons and sunsets from the deck. 

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smIMG_2131crbThe evenings, too, were glorious from this vantage point.

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smIMG_1971Finally, I have to mention the staff at the Executive Club, who are charming and friendly. And the fellow guests we had a chance to meet and chat with.

The Marriott has been a pleasant place to stay, and though we’re eager to be going home, we’ll miss it.

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At the Vienna State Opera

smIMG_1819They’re playing La Traviata tonight, and it’s a tearjerker. We’re smiling because it’s only intermission, and Violetta hasn’t started dying yet. She will, though, and it will take half an hour. Not bad for someone dying of consumption while singing at the top of her lungs. Seriously…the performances were ALL fantastic, really outstanding, especially the performer who played Violetta. It was a grand, an unforgettable experience.

 

Vienna — Tian Restaurant

We interrupt this blog’s leisurely stroll down the streets of Prague to bring you a special–and timely–post about Tian Restaurant in Vienna, where we have just finished what might be our absolutely best dinner in the last quarter century. Or more. As they say on their Web site, and on the blackboard next to the kitchen, “Experience Taste.”

smIMG_1682The truth is, you have to experience taste because your eyes will not tell you what you are eating. All your eyes will tell you is that it is beautiful. And that–and yes, the experience of taste–are more than enough.

Oh. I should mention. This magnificent restaurant is entirely vegetarian.

We each ordered a three-course dinner, and there were so many amuse-bouches between courses that we honestly lost track of them all. And forgot to photograph many. But here’s what I have. The first amuse-bouche (which contains carrot, pickled pumpkin, and an unknown but delicious drink), followed by something else I can’t identify (but trust me, it was really good), and then the first appetizer course.

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smIMG_1657Tea of tomato with raspberry. This came with a blini and, er, something.

smIMG_1655The other appetizer…

smIMG_1658…was yellow (and green) beans with goat cheese and chantarelles. I didn’t order dessert but instead had a second appetizer…

smIMG_1661…zucchini blossom stuffed with, er, something, with various little vegetables and cepes mushrooms and a parsley <something> sauce that was out of this world. There followed one of many amuse-bouches of unknown but incredibly delicious substances beautifully presented.

smIMG_1662Our neighbors at the next table, meanwhile, were eating other unknown substances amusingly presented, which they swore were delicious.

smIMG_1666Next came what might have been the first part of the main course. Or possibly more amuses-bouches.

smIMG_1670The red radish-looking things were made from radishes but were soft, not crunchy. The green seemed to be part peas.

smIMG_1667This looked like corn, but was more like corn pudding. Now here are the main courses of the main courses.

smIMG_1671Artichokes and young corn with cabernet sauvignon jus. (Never have I seen a single piece of popcorn so enticingly presented!)

smIMG_1672Tetris of young kohlrabi with jasmine blossom.

And finally, that course you’ve all been waiting for: dessert:

smIMG_1674Coeur de Guanaja chacolate with strawberry and yoghurt.

Oh, this meal makes me dizzy just thinking about it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Prague — human figures are everywhere

When I say, “Human figures are everywhere,” I am not referring to the tourists. Though heaven knows, we tourists are certainly everywhere, too. But in Prague there are people all over the buildings. Around doorways and windows, holding up balconies (often with great difficulty), preaching from rooftops.

Squat and rather plain buildings take on an unexpected grace.

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In corners, on rooftops, and right at street level we can find angels in human form with wings, hugely muscled men, gracefully draped women as well as naked ones, and even babies.

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Lake Tahoe

Lake Tahoe is one of the world’s strange places. Once a drop of water finds its way into the lake, it takes…well, compare this with, let’s say, Lake Michigan. Once a drop of water finds its way into Lake Michigan, it takes on average about two years for that drop of water to work its way out of the lake. Once a drop of water finds its way into Lake Tahoe, by comparison, it takes on average some seven hundred years for that drop to get out. This lake requires a long-term commitment.

And besides for evaporation, there’s only one way out: the Truckee River, which heads out almost due west but ultimately disgorges to the east into Pyramid Lake in Nevada.

As nearly as we can tell–a totally subjective observation–the main purpose of the Truckee River these days is to provide an ecstatic floating experience to crowds of visiting tourists, culminating in heart-pounding Class 0.2 rapids, after which they make you disembark and return your rafts. It’s way fun.

There’s other fun around Lake Tahoe, too, and plenty of it: there is, for example, the early morning wake-up at Tahoe House Bakery with excellent caffeine-rich coffee and fresh, delicious baked goods just a short walk from our rental house; hiking trails everywhere, including a trailhead also within easy walking distance; and a cute little town with a perennial traffic jam that just can’t be beat. Neither can the scenery.

   

And restaurants with bars out on piers by the lake, where the sunsets beg to be watched.

 

And sunrises from the bedroom window. In Tahoe, it all seems beyond compare

Southeast Asia

In the near future, I am going to begin posting a (long) series of blog entries about Dan’s and my recent trip to Singapore, Myanmar, and Cambodia. I’ve been through a first-pass edit of literally thousands of photographs, and I’m culling the best few that will give you a flavor of what the places, the people, and the activities were like, without putting you into visual overload.

So that you can get a sense of the big picture, here’s a table of contents, of sorts. I’ll start with Myanmar (Burma), move on to Cambodia, and then show Singapore. This is not the order in which we traveled. We traveled to Singapore first, then Myanmar, Cambodia, and (briefly, no pictures) Thailand. However, the order I’m using makes sense as we will move from the most removed from what we consider the “modern” world to the most modern.

Inside Myanmar, I’ll show some highlights of Yangon (Rangoon, until recently the capital) first, then Bagan (a UNESCO World Heritage site), bustling Mandalay, and the enchanting and surreal Inle Lake. Each of these may require more than one entry, so it’s going to be a longer Web journey than the actual trip. But I hope you’ll stay with me on this visual adventure!

 

Views of Falling Water

Falling Water is so exquisite, one has to wonder, How did Frank Lloyd Wright ever come up with the idea for it?

I believe that the idea was all around him in plain sight. Horizontal striations dominate the Western Pennsylvania limestone rock that abounds on the site, contrasting stunningly with the vertical trees of the forest and the rushing water.

Wright’s unique genius–which cannot be overstated–was to see how this forested horizontal structure could manifest as a house.

Can you see the likeness? Here’s one little creature that seems to.

Views of Falling Water

I just returned from a trip with my mom to Falling Water, the well-known Frank Lloyd Wright house in Western Pennsylvania whose decks are cantilevered over a waterfall. You know the one.

Yes, that one. Most people have seen this view, but the amazing thing about Falling Water is that every view of the house, from its setting and relationship with its surroundings down to even the smallest interior detail, is beautiful.

Because I went on the so-called “In-Depth Tour,” which allows participants to take photographs, I am now sorting through and organizing a deluge of photos, and so I’m temporarily suspending the “Views from Golden Grove” series while I plow through these photos. I am truly privileged to be able to share some of them with you over the next few posts.

Enjoy!

Airport Security – the Ice Pack Saga

Dan and I are just crazy about Maryland crabcakes. And it turns out, not surprisingly, that the best place to get Maryland crabcakes is, well, Maryland. And the best place in Maryland that we’ve found so far is the G&M Restaurant in Linthicum, conveniently located just a mile or so from BWI airport.

I used to bring crabcakes home all the time before security cracked down on bringing liquids in carry-on luggage. Then it got more complicated. With the ice packs, I’d have to check a bag, and I never want to do that, not if I can avoid it. Sure it’s the money (the crabcakes are expensive enough!), but it’s also the extra time at the airport waiting for the checked bag. And what if the bag damaged? What if it’s lost?

So, we were out of crabcakes and I decided it was time to find out just exactly what the TSA’s rule is regarding a material that is a liquid when at room temperature but is frozen solid when being carried through security. There is nothing about this on their Web site, so I wrote to them and asked. A response came promptly. Here is what they said:

“TSA permits regular ice, frozen gel packs, and dry ice in checked and carry-on baggage.  Frozen items are allowed so long as they are solid and in a “frozen state” when presented for screening.  If frozen items are partially melted or have any liquid at the bottom of the container, the ice/liquid container must meet 3-1-1 requirements.”

So in April I froze up some ice packs and prepared for a trip to Maryland.

“Better bring a copy of that email with you,” Dan advised. And so I did.

Sure enough. When I went through security, they saw the ice packs in my bag. "It's ice packs," I kept explaining. "Frozen ice packs." They ignored me. They pulled my bag out for detailed searching. The person checking my suitcase was a supervisor. “Are you aware of TSA regulations regarding liquids?”

“Yes sir.” I whisked the TSA email out of my pack. “They say it’s okay to carry on a frozen ice pack”

He read it carefully, frowning. Finally he figured out what I had done wrong. “You have to declare this kind of thing so that we can check it. I checked it. It’s okay. You want to pack up your things?”

And so I was able to carry my ice packs aboard and to bring my crabcakes home. Yesterday I went through the exercise again. I packed three ice packs, two thicker, newer ones, and an older one that was nice and thin, good for slipping into the suitcase. All solidly frozen. I put them in ziplock bags and “declared” them separately as I’d been instructed. And it turned out that the older ice pack has some air in it, so that even frozen it’s just a little squishy, not perfectly solid.

“This one’s not frozen,” the security agent said. “It’s squishy. What’s it for?”

“I’m going to be bringing back crabcakes. Also frozen.”

“This one’s not frozen.”

“Yes it is. I just took it out of the freezer half an hour ago.”

“It’s supposed to be only for medication.”

“That’s not true. I wrote to the TSA about this and I have an email from them that puts it in the category of foodstuffs. They said I could bring it as long as it’s frozen.”

“This one’s not frozen. It’s squishy.”

“It’s frozen. Really it is. There’s just some air in it. I took it out of the freezer less than an hour ago. Been in there for a week.”

“Well, I’ll let you on with it this time, but if it’s squishy it’s not frozen.”

I am effusively grateful. “Oh, thank you so much.”

Gaahh! These frozen ice packs just don’t mix well with airport security contractors. I wonder what adventure awaits me on the way home.